Lawn edging is used to create tree rings around the base of trees, usually when the tree is planted in a lawn or paved area. The edging is installed in a circle around the tree and the area between the edging and the tree trunk is covered with a layer of organic mulch. The lawn edging provides a nice neat, crisp edge which suits the style of many gardens, especially in urban areas.

Installing Lawn Edging around Newly-Planted Trees

Tree rings using lawn edging or other material are best added to trees when they are first planted. When planting a tree, remove grass and weeds and add fertilizer as needed. Make sure the tree is planted at the correct grade with the top of the root ball one or two inches above the surrounding grade. The roots will settle after planting and this prevents rain water pooling around the trunk. Do not stake the tree because when the tree is allowed to move with the winds, it develops stronger anchor roots. After planting the tree, install the lawn edging at the outer edge, or just beyond the edge of the root zone or drip line (the area below the tree branches). After installing the edging, add a layer of mulch no more than two inches deep inside the edging to the tree trunk, this will conserve moisture and nutrients and stop weeds geminating. If the mulch is thicker than two inches deep, it will prevent water from reaching the tree roots and the soil will become too dry. Take care that no mulch actually touches the tree trunk because this may enable insects or disease to attack the tree. There are several benefits to installing landscape edging as a tree ring. Not only does it look good, but tools such as weed-whackers, manual edgers and lawn mowers are not used close to the tree trunk where they can damage the bark, cut the roots, break branches or compact the soil. The lawn edging also stops lawn grass from invading the soil under the tree where it competes with the tree for nutrients and moisture.

Installing Lawn Edging around Mature Trees

It is possible to install lawn edging as a tree ring around a mature tree but this should be done with extreme care by an expert in the field such as a professional landscape gardener or arborist. Be sure to choose a professional who has previous experience and follow up on their references. This is because there are some risks to installing tree rings around mature trees. For example the roots or bark could be damaged or branches broken. In the worst case scenario, the tree could die and you could lose a valuable mature tree that is impossible to replace. The landscape professional will remove turf grass from underneath the tree in a circular shape, the edge of the circle may well extend beyond the edge of the root zone or the drip line (the area below the tree branches) so it could be a very large area, depending on the size of the tree. After the turf is removed, edging will be installed, followed by a layer of mulch.

Tree rings can improve the appearance of your yard or garden and also contribute to the long-term health of a tree. Be sure to follow the correct steps to prevent damage to the tree and hire an expert when working with mature trees or valuable specimen trees.

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Burning bush (Euonymus alatus)

This shrub is named for it’s bright red leaves in the fall. It’s easy to grow and does well in most soil types. Thrives in sun to partial shade. Full height is about 9′ it has an open rounded shape. USDA zones 4 – 8.

Spirea (Spirea)

There are several varieties of spirea so it’s easy to choose the ideal size, leaf and flower. They are native to the US, very easy to grow and drought-tolerant once established. They do best in USDA zones 3-8.

Korean Spice Viburnum (Viburnum carlesii)

Covered in intensely fragrant white flowers in the spring and beautiful red-yellow leaves in the fall. There are many cultivars that vary in height from 3′ to 10′. Grows best in full sun. USDA zones 5 – 8.

Ninebark (Physocarpus Coppertina)

Ninebark is grown primarily for its foliage color and decorative peeling bark. Foliage color varies from burgundy, yellow or red depending on the variety. They grow about 8′ to 10′ tall but can be kept smaller with pruning. Tolerates moist soil conditions. USDA zones 3-7

Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

These shrubs vary in height from 4′ to 15′ depending on the cultivar. They have showy, large flowers and a long bloom time. Add to this the attractive fall foliage and you have a shrub which looks great all year. USDA zones 5-9.

When summer flowers have gone, these shrubs will add a bright burst of color to your garden!

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Roses
Roses are the perfect flower for almost any occasion. The roses that are one hit wonders are the tree climbers and garden roses; these are spring bloomers and blooms once. The perfect time to prune? Right after they finish blooming.
Do you have some that return in the same year or season? Repeat bloomers such as modern shrub roses or hybrid teas are to be pruned to the shape of the plant and to remove the damaged as it comes.

Deciduous Shade Trees
When winter comes, these trees become dormant. During this time, it’s the perfect time to prune. You won’t harm the tree in anyway or spread disease while it is dormant.

Deciduous Fruit Trees
You want to create space in this tree for sun to be absorbed. You want to prune in winter when it is dormant. You want the best quality over the most quantity.

Evergreens (Fir, spruce, cypress, etc)
Ho Ho Ho, the classic Christmas tree. The needle type trees should be pruned in the early growing time. You don’t want to cut any wood that does not contain any of the green needles. If done, it may not grow back for you.
Natural Holiday decorations? This tree is perfect for snipping a few in the winter for your home. It won’t affect the growth of the tree.

Pruning Tips

• Don’t prune any newborn trees or trees that are newly planted. Wait at least a year before clipping away.
• Cut as close to the branching point, this will avoid any stubs on the tree.
• Dip the tool you’re using to prune with rubbing alcohol to eliminate the spread of any disease the plant may have.

The post When to Prune: Part 2 appeared first on Landscape Edging Blog.

Eating prunes helps to digest food and get rid of the “bad” in our bodies; the process of pruning is to get rid of the “bad” off plants. As soon as you notice anything dead, diseased or damaged you’re going to want to get rid of it. When pieces of a plant are broken, insects, pests and, harmful diseases are attracted to said plant.

Spring
Anything that blooms in the early spring should be pruned right after they’re done blooming. Try to avoid pruning in the winter. Pruning in the winter can damaged it for the following spring.

Summer
For the flowers, trees, and shrubs that grow in the summer you will want to prune them in the winter while they are dormant. These plants you can cut to the core in early spring or late winter as well and it will not harm the bloom in summer.

Hydrangeas
You will need to prune any type of Hydrangea early summer. If pruned before then you will be destroying the buds before they can bloom.

Hedges
Here are a few tips for growing hedges

• Refrain from shearing six weeks before frost. Optimal time is in the early growth. Following this will give you the best green foliage your plant can offer.
• For shrubs that are formed into hedges, you will want the top narrower than the bottom. This will keep the top from casting a shadow and hindering growth.
• Growing a privacy hedge? Let them grow and only prune if you need to.

Gardening Tip!
Save time and your back by using a pole pruner where the head rotates.

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